Crisis diverted. I decided to go with a grilled onion relish on the pork: grilled red onions tossed with cider vinegar, cider, extra virgin olive oil, fresh basil. I was looking to give it a little spice and I felt this was a perfect way with out being over powering. For the steak, which is served with garlicky spinach, red wine jus, and our ‘tater tots I went with a play on “hotel” butter. I made a schmere of garlic and shallot confit, anchovies, caper, olives and fresh herbs, I love that intense salty richness on a steak.

The braised beef and grits special is so awesome, I feel its all about fall. The meat is tender and the warmth from the red wine and tomatoes is perfect with the spice of the Head Country sauce, which has notes of tartness, cinnamon, cumin, and chilies. All served on the creamy yet granular grits with sharp Vermont cheddar swirled in. Staff loved it, I’m happy.

It’s Halloween tomorrow and we’re having a big party here, always a good time. Here I am last year….

It’s been one of those days. I’ve felt under a lot of pressure and questioning the menu. I wonder what is going on? Why can I not sit still with this menu, 75% I am very happy with, but the pork [and now] steak are driving me nuts. I’ll get there, tomorrow I’ll have it. In fact I almost have it now….

Being stressed about this menu is not fun for me. So instead I’m focusing on my specials for the weekend. I have a chuck roll (you know as pot roast) that I am braising in red wine, tomato juice and Head Country BBQ sauce. Cooking it to an internal temperature of 180 and then cooling it in the braising liquid (to keep it moist). Tomorrow I’ll portion it in 3 ounce pieces, reheat it in the reduced braising liquid and serve it over cheddar grits. See isn’t that more fun to think about?!

My other Special will be Lobster two ways: Grilled whole tail with caper and rosemary butter and claws tossed with gnocchis, spinach, apples and bacon. I’m only bringing in five since I am not sure how many I can sell at 35$ each….

Off to cook on the line. Thinking Indian food tonight after work.

I woke up this morning thinking [craving] meatballs. Is this how others wake up? I am not sure why, maybe it was the conversation last week with Heather Chittum about how to make meatballs or perhaps it’s the Ball Brawl I’m participating at Restaurant Dante? I guess it doesn’t matter, I knew I had to address this issue head on.

Coffee, breakfast, and I’m off to shop. A quick stop a Savenor’s for ground veal, ground beef, ground pork. When I’m feeling finicky about my meats this is where I go, expensive yes, fresh and high quality yes. Next stop Russo’s…

Who knew it was so busy on a Sunday afternoon? Interesting thing about my occupation is we work off hours and I rarely see rush hour, busy restaurants on a Saturday night (except mine), or Russo’s on a Sunday. It was complete nuts.

While there I ran into Olgo Russo Jr. stocking mushrooms, I asked him what he was doing there, he says he works everyday. That is some dedication! it shows how much they cares, and that he is slightly touched (i kid). He introduced me to Mark Trumble the cheese monger, he’s a super cool guy and knows tons and tons about cheese. I did go just to get ingredients for meatballs, but after talking to him for about 15 minutes how could I not buy some Munster Gerome and Camembert au Calvados. I adore cheese, the stinkier the better, I can’t wait to eat them….hmmm what wine should I have?

Then I wondered around the apples: Mutsu, Jonagold, Cortland, all local all looking so yummy, ok just one basket. I think maybe I’ll make some crisp, so of course I need to buy some cider, and do I have sugar for caramel? Another ten minutes passed as I stared at apples and then I realized I had to focus and get meatball ingredients; onions, garlic, basil, rosemary, crusty bread…and I was off.

Russo’s is so much fun, but alas, I had get out of there and make meatballs. I’m psyched for dinner.

It’s nice to be back, and it looks like I am not traveling for a few weeks if not longer and I can’t be happier. We change our menu a last week and I’m trying to work with the waiters so they know it inside and out. My main focus is the use of descriptors, to be able to really describe not just what is in each dish but to say what it tastes like. Again, it’s simply this question: “what does a tomato taste like?”

I get it. It’s a scallop, it tastes like a scallop. Ok but what else? I see it as: crispy, crunchy, smooth, creamy, rich, buttery, it has a slight briny, salt flavor…. Everyday for about ten minutes we are going over and over each dish. I love the waiters here, they are all working so hard, I applaud them daily. Now just learn my damn menu!

This previous Thursday I was at the State Room for the Rett Syndrome Event, it’s the 8th year in a row I have participated in it. I love the State Room, my friend Jim Apteker owns it (and donates the space for the event) and I love this event, it’s a special cause and I am more than happy to help out.

Here are Jamie of Toro and Dante of Restaurant Dante
As well as Jason from Gargoyles at the Rett Syndrome Event

I’m not sure what happened to the rest of the post I wrote…let me recap.

Ricky showed up Sunday at 9:30, he took over cooking the hog till 3pm when it was served with salsa verde, warm tortillas, beans and rice.

I jumped in my car and drove to Logan and I was off to DC. I was attending Share Our Strength’s Conference of Leaders, which I look forward to every year. It’s truly amazing to be in a room of 200 people who are all dedicated to fighting hunger. It’s also a chance to see chefs and friends from around the country that I rarely get to see but respect so much. Sunday night the keynote speaker was Billy Shore, director and founder of SOS, he is incredibly modivating, smart, and fantastic to listen to. He was introduced by Frank Brigtsen of Brigtsen’s in New Orleans, he gave an update about NOLA post Katrina, this guy besides being a kick as chef, is an eloquent speaker and a caring human being- it was an honor to hear both of them speak. Simply heartfelt.

I was nominated for the 20th Anniversary Chef of the Year, I was nervous. I had nothing written if I was to win and as I said the people in this room are people I look up to…Stephen Pyles, Mary Sue Milliken, David Burke, David Banks we also nominated, it was an honor to have my names next to theirs. David Burke won and I am happy for him, I am happy for me, I am happy for everyone in the room. It’s about fighting hunger and we all do a good job.

I spent the evenings mainly with Mindy Segal of Hot Chocolate, Heather Chittum of Hook, Michael Kornick of MK, and Jeff Elliot from Henkel knives …it’s a treat to relax with friends you rarely get to see and admire a ton.

I’m home now, jumped right into the kitchen, just where I want to be.

Lifting 75#s (twice) at 3am was a real treat. I wanted to make it easy to get out so I played with it for ten minutes trying to get it perfect.

The smoker held 200F all night, I got up every two hours and added wood and coal. Ricky arrived at 9:30 to finish cooking the pig.

Left MV at noon, we had a blast, maybe a few to many Patrons.

I went home, napped, packed, watched some of the sox game and then went to 647 to prep the hog.

It’s a 150# hog and since I am here by myself I cut it in half, couldn’t see getting it in the smoker at 3am. Ricky and I then made tiny 2cm slits in the skin and shoved garlic and sage leaves in it.

It’s 1am, I am at nesenkeag farm, exausted, fire is lit, I’m going to sleep in my car til 3am, then throw the hog in the smoker. Not much sleep tonight, flight at 12:45 to DC…

Here’s the hog getting packed and smoker

7pm

All done w my demo, I absolutely love public speaking. I did my salsa 101 demo where I talk about from the farm to the fork.
Served seared steak w salsa, limed sour cream, salsa

Pulled pork, slaw, cornbread.

Here’s a pic of the diners

Spoke with Mrs. Mondavi, she wants to taste the food with the wines and discuss. She’s a very nice woman and I am honored to cook for her.

The pork is cooking, we have prepped all that we can. Eating a lobster roll, perhaps a hint of tarragon, yummy.

Dante has arrived with his entourage…love that guy! Awesome chef. We’re alternating courses/demos.

I’m tired and loving every minute!

Pork

‘Mrs Mondavi wants to speak to you’ is how I was greeted this morning at the hotel (Hobknob) in Oak Bluffs, MV. Generally, in fact not often, how I get greeted.

I’m here to cook two courses for the MV food and wine festival. We were up at 6am to light the smoker and fill it w pork shoulders.

Going to blog all weekend, it’s going to be fun!

Here is Emma and Ricky helping me pack and the smoker on MV